Promoting local fleeces in a circular economy project
How to transform an underused fleece into a sustainable product: diagnosis, outlets, processing, evidence and circularity indicators.
Valuing a local fleece is not just about preventing it from being discarded. It means finding a relevant use for it that is technically feasible and sustainable.
In Quebec, the circular economy aims to optimize the use of resources at all stages of their life cycle. For wool, this requires connecting available material, processing, product, maintenance, and end-of-use.
1. Start with an honest diagnosis
Not all fleeces are suitable for the same yarn. Evaluate cleanliness, length, fineness, uniformity, strength, color, and presence of contaminants. A fiber that is not suitable for clothing may sometimes find another outlet, but the choice must be based on testing.
2. Choose the outlet before processing
Knitting yarn, felt, stuffing, woven fabric, or industrial product do not require the same preparation. Designing the outlet first avoids producing processed material without a clear market.
The IWTO describes several wool recycling pathways: closed-loop fiber-to-yarn, reuse in industrial products, and re-engineering or upcycling. A new local fleece is not a recycled fiber, but the same logic applies: maintain the highest possible value and avoid useless transformations.
3. Measure losses and resources
Document gross weight, weight after sorting, yield after washing, and final weight. Add distances, water, energy, and co-products when significant. This data helps improve the next project and avoids vague claims.
4. Design for a long service life
The life cycle analysis of wool highlights the importance of considering the entire life of the product, including the use phase. A well-designed, repairable, and actually used item can be more relevant than a symbolic object that remains unsold.
Plan for a clear function, care instructions, reparability, and, when realistic, a take-back or reuse pathway.
5. Only tell what can be proven
Keep records of lot origins, weights, processing steps, and results. Also explain limitations: sorting losses, added fibers, steps performed outside the region, or technical constraints. Transparency makes the project more credible.
To structure a project, Makeloo Studio's consulting service helps clarify the material, the outlet, the tests, and the necessary evidence before confirming a processing pathway.
Simple indicators to track
- kilograms of fleeces evaluated;
- percentage directed to a defined use;
- yield at each stage;
- proportion of local material in the final product;
- number of products sold or actually used;
- duration of use, repair, or take-back when measurable.
RECYC-QUÉBEC indicates that textile disposal increased by 114% in twelve years, reaching 344,000 tonnes in Quebec in 2023. Its textile circularity program includes reduction, reuse, sorting, conditioning, and recycling, including for post-industrial residues.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is a local fiber automatically circular?
No. Proximity is a characteristic of the journey; circularity also depends on resource use, duration, losses, and end-of-life.
Should all fleeces be transformed into yarn?
No. The best outlet depends on the actual qualities of the material and demand.
What is the first test to do?
A lot diagnosis, followed by a small prototype linked to a concrete use.