Service - Collection Design & Yarn Engineering

Collection Design & Yarn Engineering

Crafting the perfect "recipe" for consistent and professional production.

Developing a collection isn't just about spinning wool; it's about designing a technical product that meets a specific use (hand knitting, weaving, or machine knitting). Makeloo Studio helps you define your yarn's DNA through a scientific approach to fiber.

1. Yarn Collection Development

We work on the consistency of your range to give it a unique signature:

• Fiber Selection: Choosing fleeces based on micron count (fineness) to ensure softness or durability.

• Range Architecture: Creating different yarn weights (Fingering, DK, Worsted) within the same visual identity.
  

• Texture Design: Experimenting with blend proportions (e.g., 80% local sheep / 20% mohair for luster).
  

2. The Technical Sheet: Metrology for Consistency

For a brand to be credible, the yarn must be identical from one year to the next. We document every technical parameter of your "recipe":

• Grist & Nm Control: We calculate the exact ratio between length and weight. A yarn with a Grist of 2.5 m/g (Nm 2500) ensures perfect consistency for your production.
  

• Linear Mass (Tex): We define the density of your yarn. For example, a Tex 400 indicates a robust and structured yarn, while a higher Tex will indicate a thicker and warmer yarn.
  

• Twist (TPI - turns per inch): Precise adjustments on the 12-spindle Belfast to determine if your yarn will be airy or ultra-resistant (sock yarn).
  

• Visual Density (WPI - Wraps Per Inch): Measuring the number of wraps per inch to ensure compliance with market standards.
  

3. Transposition: From Mill Yarn to Finished Product

This is where Makeloo's expertise comes into its own. We translate raw machine data into concrete information for the end-user:

• Tension Swatch - the “Gauge”: We test the yarn on our knitting machines (Komet or Passap) to determine the number of stitches per cm.
  

• Post-Wash Behavior: Analysis of fiber bloom after the first blocking, to anticipate the final size of the garment.

• Recommended Use: defining the ideal needle size so that the knit is soft, durable, and pill-free.