Beyond "Laine du Pays": The Art and Science of Fibre According to Robson, Parkes, and Hunter

By Marcelo Martins

When we think of local wool, we often picture a raw, rustic material associated with historical nostalgia. Yet, in the world of high-performance and technical textiles, wool is a fascinatingly complex, engineered material.

At Makeloo Studio Laine Québec, we reject the generic, oversimplified label “laine du pays” (country wool).

My Definition of “Laine du Pays”

"To me, laine du pays refers to wool that is mechanically mixed during processing without any regard for fibre types, breeds, provenance, or final destination. In this approach, textile intention is entirely absent. The purpose of the product and the technical construction of the yarn are never considered. What you get, most of the time, is an all-purpose, highly textured, and rustic yarn made using basic techniques from whatever fibres happen to be on hand. Without precise identification, they are blended simply to meet immediate customer demand, regardless of thickness or physical properties."

— Marcelo Martins, Founder of Makeloo Studio

Technical Inclusivity: Valuing 100% of Québec Wool

To be clear, rejecting the vague label of laine du pays does not mean excluding crossbred sheep or F1 crosses like Dorset-Romanov. On the contrary! These wools also have a clear purpose and an essential place in our processing chain.

The key is not absolute genetic purity for its own sake, but rather the INTENTION behind its transformation and the FINALITY (end-use) of the resulting yarn. At Makeloo, our core mission is to design a viable, high-quality yarn solution for every wool producer in Québec. We work tirelessly to ensure that all wool sheared across our territory is processed optimally and that the textile industry can utilize it to its full potential.

It is precisely to structure this inclusive, highly technical approach that we rely on the analytical methodologies of three revolutionary figures in modern fibre science: Deborah Robson, Clara Parkes, and Anna Hunter.

Discover how their scientific and empirical work guides my process, from shearing to your next favourite knitwear piece or tomorrow’s eco-insulators.

1. Deborah Robson: The Genetic and Structural Mapping of Fibre

Co-author of the textile bible The Fleece & Fibre Sourcebook, Deborah Robson has dedicated her life to documenting the textile behaviour of over 200 sheep breeds worldwide. Her approach is both anthropological and biological.

• The Theory: Each sheep breed produces a unique fibre shaped by genetics and environment. Robson analyzes the relationship between fibre diameter (measured in microns $\mu\text{m}$), crimp structure (the natural wave), and staple length (the length of a single lock). She also studies the complexity of primitive double-coated fleeces (such as Icelandic), which feature a coarse, weather-resistant outer coat and an ultra-soft, insulating undercoat.

• The Application at Makeloo Studio: Guided by this structural framework, we never blend fleeces at random. We isolate each lot to exploit its biological characteristics fully—whether it is a heritage purebred or a thoughtful cross. For instance, we select Shropshire wool for its natural resistance to felting and its three-dimensional elasticity—ideal for durable accessories that retain their shape.

2. Clara Parkes: The Physics and Mechanics of Yarn

Author of the seminal book The Knitter’s Book of Wool, Clara Parkes analyzes wool through the lens of physical transformation. Her work explains how the raw structure of the fibre directly dictates the mechanical behaviour of the spun yarn and the final fabric’s "hand.”

• The Theory: Parkes examines the impact of twist direction (Z- or S-twist), ply count, and spinning style (worsted vs. woollen) on the textile’s thermal and elastic properties. She demonstrates how a multi-ply yarn architecture (like a 2-ply or 3-ply) distributes tension to maximize resilience—the wool’s ability to bounce back—while trapping air pockets for optimal insulation.

• The Application at Makeloo: We apply these principles of textile physics to engineer our 50g and 100g skeins. By meticulously calibrating the ply count and twist of our yarns (across Fingering, Sport, and DK weights), we create products of exceptional softness and durability, adapting our spinning engineering to the specific characteristics of every wool lot we receive.

3. Anna Hunter: Territorial Traceability and the Local Ecosystem

Author of Sheep, Shepherd & Land and owner of a custom wool mill in Manitoba, Anna Hunter champions a modern, eco-responsible, and North American vision of the wool value chain.

• The Theory: Hunter focuses on absolute traceability and the ecological footprint of textile production. Her methodology is rooted in a rigorous ethical charter: meticulous preparation of the fleece (skirting and classing) right at the shearing board, combined with complete transparency regarding provenance. She highlights the vital role small-scale farms play—whether raising purebreds or rustic crosses—in preserving biodiversity and maintaining soil health.

• The Application at Makeloo: This vision is central to our business model. We collaborate directly with 16 small-scale Québec farms (averaging fewer than 400 sheep). This close relationship allows us to guarantee complete, lot-by-lot traceability for all types of fleece. Every Makeloo skein or finished product tells the story of a specific farm, shepherd, and pasture.

A New Era for Québec Textiles

By uniting my vision of the raw material with the scientific methodologies of Robson, Parkes, and Hunter, Makeloo Studio Laine Québec does more than just spin yarn: we engage in eco-responsible textile engineering. By understanding fibre biology, mastering spinning physics, and honouring the land that sustains the flocks, we are actively redefining the value of our textile heritage.

The next time you touch one of our creations, remember that you are holding much more than wool: you are holding clear textile intent, science, and an absolute commitment to a sustainable future for our entire pastoral ecosystem.

Bibliography & Recommended Reading

To further explore the scientific, mechanical, and ecological foundations of fibre that guide our work, we highly recommend the following reference materials:

• Robson, Deborah and Carol Ekarius. (2011). The Fleece & Fibre Sourcebook: More Than 200 Fibres, from Animal to Spun Yarn. Storey Publishing, LLC.

  ISBN-13: 978-1603427111

• Parkes, Clara. (2009). The Knitter’s Book of Wool: The Ultimate Guide to Understanding, Using, and Loving This Most Fabulous Fibre. Potter Craft.

  ISBN-13: 978-0307352170

• Hunter, Anna. (2023). Sheep, Shepherd & Land: Stories of Sheep Farmers Reinvigorating Canadian Wool (Photographs by Christel Lanthier). Nine Ten Publications.

  ISBN-13: 978-1777387020

• Hunter, Anna (with contribution by Clara Parkes). (2025). The True Cost of Wool: A Vision for Revitalizing the Canadian Industry. Nine Ten Publications.

  ISBN-13: 978-1738360710